Cherry Tomatoes
Seeds Per Plug: 1
Light requirement: 15+ hours on <9 hours Off
Watering Schedule: 15 minutes every hour – off for 8 hours
Nutrients: Veg A & B + Bloom A + B (See Notes)
Yields Per Plant: 20+
Time to Harvest: 60+ Days
Plant Spacing: 6 inches
Pollination: Electric toothbrush
What to Expect- Hydroponic Cherry Tomaotes
Cherry Tomatoes are easier to grow in a hydroponic system. With that said, a wide variety of tomatoes are vining crops, meaning they like to sprawl out and take up a alot of space. We don’t have that luxury in hydroponics, which is why bush varieties of tomatoes are ideal for hydroponics.
I chose Red Robin seeds for cherry tomatoes because the bushes tend to stay compact, allowing you to plant them closer together while still getting amazing results. This trial does involve self-pollination, so make sure you have an electric toothbrush on hand for when it’s time to pollinate those tomato flowers.
With all that said, let’s start growing some cherry tomatoes in our hydroponic systems!
Nutrients: When starting your cherry tomato plants, start with a Veg A & B nutrient. Dry or liquid nutrients will work, just make sure you’re dosing according to the product label. If you’re measuring pH and EC, keep the pH between 5.5 and 6.3 and the EC between 2.0 and 3.5 mS/cm as the plant grows. Once the plant starts to flower/fruit, you want to keep EC above 2.5-4.0 mS/cm. If you’re growing leafy greens in the same system as your cherry tomatoes, lower the EC to 2.0 to accommodate everyone. When you start seeing buds like in photo one, you’ll switch over to a bloom A + B nutrient mix.
Pollination: Because pollination doesn’t occur naturally indoors, we need to pollinate our cherry tomato plants manually. Once the flowers start to open, as in photo 2, gently touch the flower with an electric toothbrush. This will cause the pollen inside the flower to release (it’s actually quite cool). You want to do this every 1-2 days until the flowers start to fruit. You can see one just starting to fruit in photo 2.
Hydroponic Tomato Timeline
BUDDING
FLOWERING
FRUITING
HARVEST
Seed Recommendation
Troubleshooting & Such
Why aren’t my seeds germinating?
There are several reasons your seeds aren’t germinating. The first is the quality of the seed; try to pick ones you know are fresh and from a reliable source. I linked the ones I used on the first page. Your pods may also be too dry. You want to keep your pods wet, but not soaked. Additionally, you want to make sure your seedlings are getting sufficient light and a consistent temperature between 21 and 25 degrees C.
I have pests! Now what?
First, make sure there are no plants in the soil near your hydroponic system, and limit its exposure to dogs and other pets that frequently go outside. If you can sacrifice the infected plant, the easy thing to do is remove it to save the rest of your plants. Subsequently, use a soap-and-water or hydrogen peroxide-and-water solution on your plants daily. You also want to give your entire system a thorough cleaning before replanting plants in it.
My plant looks discoloured or a bit fried.
If your leaves are discoloured (often yellow), this is typically a nutrient deficiency. Test your pH & EC to see where your levels are. Add pH or nutrient accordingly. If the leaves look crispy, this is often due to too much light. Your light may be too close to the plant, or are running for too long. Typically, you want your plant at least a foot from the light, and not exposed to light for more than 18 hours.
Why does my system have Algae?
Almost every hydroponic system has algae. This is bound to happen when you mix water and direct light. There are several ways to reduce algae, including having a dry period where your pump is not running and ensuring your water sources are covered. My ZipGarden comes with 2 drip tray covers for this exact reason: they reduce light exposure to water and limit algae growth in the tray. If you have a ZipGrow system, your wicking strips will get algae on them. It doesn’t pose a risk to the plant’s health or quality.If your leaves are discoloured (often yellow), this is typically a nutrient deficiency. Test your pH & EC to see where your levels are. Add pH or nutrient accordingly. If the leaves look crispy, this is often due to too much light. Your light may be too close to the plant, or are running for too long. Typically, you want your plant at least a foot from the light, and not exposed to light for more than 18 hours.
My tomato plant has flowered, but isn’t fruiting.
When you start to see those open yellow flowers, it’s time to self-pollinate with a pollinator or an electric toothbrush! Pollen (which looks like dust) will come out of the flower. When you see thing you’ll know you’re on the right track.
Things to Remember...
- Make sure your reservoir is large enough to last at least a week without refilling.
- Make sure you have a tool on hand to self-pollinate your tomato plant.
- Vent your seedling before taking the dome off.
- Don’t leave your lights on for an extended period if your pump is off.
- Find a pump that is appropriate for your hydroponic set up.
- Be patient with your plants, they won’t be ready overnight!
The Hydroponic Kitchen Rules to Grow By
- Remember, in hydroponics, there are a dozen ways to get the same result, and there is still so much more to uncover.
Get the Complete Guide
Get the complete guide to growing hydroponic cherry tomatoes at home!
- 3-Page Overview of Growing Hydroponic Cherry Tomatoes
- Lighting & Watering Requirements
- Spacing, Pollination, Dosing, pH & EC
- Timeline & What to Expect
- Equipment Overview
- Checklists
- Recipe Recommendations
- Troubleshooting & More!